In our last installment of Adventures in Home Studio Building, I mentioned that I would tell you later about the physical changes to the room used. Well, here we go!
As mentioned before, the changes had to be weighed against the WAF. The WAF is the wife approval factor, and in this project it was much reduced, as his wife also is a musician and would be using the studio space. So she was willing to make some sacrifices for the sound quality in the room, but she still wanted it to look nice when company came over. Your mileage may vary.
The room in question was formerly a spare bedroom with a built in closet that was less than useful and very poorly placed. It was situated so you walked into the end of it coming in the door and prevented moving any furniture larger than a plant stand in our out of the room without an engineering degree. Simply put, it had to go. So we took the hammers to that right away. It came down with a lovely crash and a pile of drywall dust, and left a wonderful hole in the old carpet where it once stood, along with a substantial scar on the wall where it was removed.
We had planed on laying new drywall over the old, so this was not an issue, but we at least had to smooth out the mess left behind first, which of course made a lot more dust. Fortunately, we had not removed the door to the room like we had originally planned on doing, but unfortunately, it was one of those modern doors with a 2” gap at the bottom and a lot of dust leaked out into the house and had to be cleaned up. And drywall dust is awful on computers and recording gear, just something to keep in mind when you are doing remodeling.
So the next step was to tear the old carpet out, which was actually needed. It was worn and stained, and pretty ugly anyway. That took the better part of an afternoon, as it had been glued to the floor and the glue held the backing foam really well. So after we got that all scraped off the room was ready to start rebuilding. We finished up the clean up and took a break until the next weekend.
Back at it the next weekend we were hampered by rain (which meant no cutting the drywall out in the middle of the driveway like we had planned), but managed to get a lot done. First, and most important in getting the room more suitable, was new drywall over the existing drywall. This does a couple things; it insulates the room for more efficiency heating and cooling, and it adds mass to the walls to help reduce the transmission of low frequency sounds from outside in and inside out. We used a combination of construction adhesive and drywall screws to mount the sheets of 5/8” drywall over the existing 1/2” drywall (which may have actually been 3/8” - it was pretty thin and flimsy). We also made sure to put up the second layer at a 90 degree angle to the original and were very careful to not line up seams so any given section of the room had at least one solid layer of drywall even without drywall compound.
We later realized it may have been a good idea to add rigid foam insulation between the layers of drywall to absorb even more sound, but it would have made the installation a lot more complicated than our skills allowed for, and because the floor and ceiling would not have the same level of isolation, some sound would still leak through.
Then came mudding the seams with drywall compound and tape, and once that was done we let it stand for a few days to dry before we sanded. Our mud work left a bit to be desired, so a second pass of compound had to be done after sanding (some pros can take multiple passes and get a wall finished so well you will never be able to find the seam). A good illustration of how the pros do it can be found here:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/overview/0,,410343,00.html
About this time, we started talking about finish techniques and what needed to be done for the WAF. We settled on a low wainscoted wall with a textured finish above. (Dammit! Had we known that was going to happen, we wouldn't have had to redo the seams! We could have just textured over it.) We had been given several photos to go from, and printouts of a few different pages from the net.
Here are a few links that can get you started if you are going to try this route yourself – note that we did no cross troweling, so all our texture runs up and down:
http://www.hometips.com/diy-how-to/venetian-plaster-paint-textures.html
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/venetian-plaster-and-strie-technique/index.html
What we did is pretty much a really horrible drywall compound job, as opposed to a real, proper venetian plaster job. We got some compound on the wide drywall trowel and just dragged it up the wall with the trowel at about a 45 degree angle to the wall, then pulled it back down leaving a ragged texture behind. It didn't take very long to get the room complete, and in a few hours we went back in and did a second coat to add depth to the effect. It is worth noting here that we did not use colored compound, we had planned to paint over the walls after everything was dry. So after the game, we finished the walls down to just below where the wainscoting was going to stop and let it dry for a couple days.
After everything was dry, we realized we had some high spots in the compound, so we did a light sanding of the rough walls to knock the high spots off. We had some left over compound and an idea, so we tried it out, and sure enough, it works! We had several plastic stencils from Hobby Lobby that were intended to do painted borders with, and we simply troweled drywall compound over the stencil onto our test board and lifted it off. It leaves a beautiful, raised image of what ever you have a stencil of. So after sanding and wiping the walls, we did a stencil pattern to give the walls even more texture. Even in the ugly nearly monochrome of drywall compound on Sheetrock, it looked pretty cool.
What we did is pretty much a simplified (read: lazy) version of classical carved plaster walls, which if you are feeling really artistic, you can get a feel for here:
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-make-plaster-relief-walls/index.html
Now for a minute, lets step back and explain a little theory. Which is probably wrong. The thought is making a textured wall would help to break up sound reflections in the room. In reality, the differences in height on the rough wall are so small as to do little more than slightly blur the reflections, so overall the effect is only visual, not sonic. But it does add a lot to the look of the studio room, and having a room that is pleasant to be in helps the creation process. If you don't believe it, paint your studio a color you really hate and see how much time you spend in there. Fluorescent day-glo colors with really bright light for example vs a nice comfortable room done in warm golds and greens or what ever you like. The room done in comfortable colors will be much more inviting and you will write a lot fewer “I hate this room” songs.
Once we got the plaster relief stuff dried and sanded slightly to round the edges, we cleaned the bejesus out of the room and got ready to paint. We did the base coat of primer with a roller and the color coats with a wide brush, to add even more texture. We only brushed the paint up and down so all the brush strokes lined up with the direction of the texture work. We had some issue with the raised texture bits catching paint and creating drips, but it was easy enough to fix. Then we allowed everything to dry while we worked in the driveway on creating all the wainscoting.
Instead of using traditional beadboard wainscoting, my buddy wanted a more European paneled look. To do this, we kind of cheated. Normally, the large open panels are made from lots of boards glued up into a solid panel, or laid on next to each other. We used a kind of plywood called Luan, and stained it. It is about 10 bucks a 4'x8' sheet at our local Lowes Hardware store, and is about 1/4” thick. One side looks really awful, and the other is usually pretty decent. We had to dig through the entire stack to find a bunch of boards that all looked similar, and had interesting grain. While there, we got a bunch of 1x6 to rip down with the table saw and make the stiles that will cover the gaps between the sheets of luan once everything is in place. We also picked up stain at this time, and our total bill for that trip was about 145 bucks. It turned out we had to go back and get a couple more sheets of luan, since we didn't get enough to account for cutting mistakes.
This is the page we used for our idea on what we were doing, with substitutions in materials:
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-cut-stain-and-install-wainscoting-panels/index.html
We did not use the stain conditioner mentioned in the article, and in retrospect, it probably would have been a good idea to have done so; the stain is uneven in some places. We had a couple cutting errors when it came to outlet box placement (which should not have happened, since we had the exact same problem with the drywall and should have learned our lesson then). The drywall errors were easy to hide, since they were behind the wainscoting, but the screw ups in the panels really showed. We were able to use the scrap panels for other stuff though, so it wasn't a total waste.
Once we got the panels stained and cut, we mounted them with construction adhesive and left over drywall screws, making sure the screws were located under where the stiles would cover. Then we got all the stiles cut, sanded them and did some basic router work to give them a little detailing and stained them. This article pretty much covers how we did that:
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-dress-up-a-dining-room-with-custom-wainscoting/index.html
The only exception here was we hand drove the nails, and in a few places a missed hammer blow marked the wood. Ah well, it adds “character” I guess. We also took a couple shortcuts here, just butt-jointing the stiles instead of routing the ends to all lock together. Some small gaps show in a couple places, but only at the top and with the little lip nailed on top, you don't really see it unless you are sitting on the floor and know where to look.
We had tacked the baseboards in place to install the stiles, but removed them to allow room for the carpet installation. Fortunately, we had remembered to leave space for the thickness of the carpet and new carpet pad, or we would have had a hell of a mess to fix later.
We took some of the left over 1x3 material we had ripped down out of 1x6 and made a sort of crown molding around the upper edge of the room as well, and installed that with finish nails.
Now the walls were done, so most of our work was done. My buddies brother in law came in and did the electrical reinstall. Since we had made the walls thicker, he had to mount box extenders and reinstall all the wall jacks. He also laid the new carpet, and once that was down we were able to go in and install the baseboards, completing the room work.
If I do say so myself, it looked pretty damn good for a couple of amateurs!
Next up, we cover sound treatment in the room and how to make that wife acceptable.